What the taco plant is
The taco plant is usually sold as Peperomia axillaris, a compact, semi-succulent peperomia with thick, bright green leaves that fold slightly along the middle, a bit like a taco shell. Like other peperomias, it belongs to the Piperaceae family, the same family as black pepper. Plant names can overlap, so if a label just says “taco plant,” check the botanical name before you buy or follow care advice. If you arrived here searching for a “pepper plant” or “prayer pepper”, see prayer plant and pepper plant care.
Most of what follows applies to peperomias in general, since the genus is large and many species share similar needs. Where a species behaves differently, that is noted. For care notes on two popular varieties with their own quirks, see the guides to the Funky Frog peperomia and Peperomia ‘Napoli Nights’.
Light
Bright, indirect light suits most peperomias. A spot near an east-facing window, or a bright room set back from a south- or west-facing window, is a common choice. Strong direct midday sun can scorch or fade the leaves. Many growers find that short periods of gentle morning sun are tolerated, but it is safer to introduce direct light gradually.
Low light is often tolerated for a while, but growth may slow and stems can stretch and lose their compact shape. Variegated types generally need brighter light to keep their patterns. If you do not have a bright window, a grow light is an option, particularly in winter. Peperomias also appear among the plants for a north-west facing window.
Watering
Thick leaves store water, so peperomias usually cope with a little dryness better than with constantly wet soil. Overwatering is the most commonly reported cause of problems.
- Let the top part of the mix dry before watering again. Many guides suggest the top quarter to half of the soil, and some species like the soil to dry out more than others.
- Water thoroughly, then empty the saucer so the pot is not standing in water.
- Water less often in winter and in lower light.
- Skip any fixed schedule. Check the soil with a finger or a wooden skewer instead.
The leaf squeeze check. Some growers gently squeeze a taco plant leaf: if it feels firm, the plant likely has enough water, and if it flexes easily and feels soft, it may be ready for a drink. Treat this as a rough guide and check the soil as well, because a soft leaf can also be a sign of rot from too much water.
Top or bottom watering? Either can work. Bottom watering, where the pot sits in a shallow dish of water for a short time and is then drained, helps keep the upper soil and stems from staying wet. Watering from the top is fine if you water around the base and let the pot drain fully.
Soil and pots
Use a light, fast-draining mix. A common approach is an all-purpose potting mix with perlite or pumice added; one suggestion from the National Garden Bureau is about 3 parts potting mix to 1 part perlite or pumice, adjusted to your conditions. A cactus or succulent mix with extra perlite is another option for the taco plant.
Peperomias have small root systems and tend to do well when slightly snug in their pots. Always use a pot with drainage holes. A pot that is too large holds soil that stays wet for too long, which raises the risk of root rot. When roots fill the pot, move up only one pot size, ideally in spring.
Temperature and humidity
Normal room temperatures of about 65-75F (18-24C) suit most peperomias. Keep them away from cold drafts, heating and cooling vents, and doors that open often in winter. Average household humidity is usually fine. Misting is not generally needed, and water sitting on the leaves can encourage problems on some plants.
Feeding
Peperomias do not need much fertilizer. A balanced houseplant fertilizer at quarter to half strength roughly once a month in spring and summer is a common recommendation. Most guides advise not feeding in winter, when growth slows. Too much fertilizer can cause weak, leggy growth.
Pruning and making a peperomia bushy
Upright and trailing peperomias can get leggy, especially in low light. To encourage a fuller plant:
- Give it brighter indirect light, and turn the pot occasionally so growth stays even.
- Pinch or trim the tips of stems just above a leaf. Branching often follows.
- Remove dead or damaged leaves as they appear.
- Root the trimmings (see below) and plant them back into the same pot if you want a denser look.
Propagation
Peperomias can usually be propagated from stem cuttings, and many types from leaf cuttings as well. The method varies by species. This also answers a common question about the baby rubber plant (Peperomia obtusifolia).
- Cut a healthy stem with a few leaves, just below a node.
- Remove the lowest leaves so a short bare section is left.
- Place the cutting in water, or push it into a light, moist, well-draining mix.
- Keep it warm and bright but out of direct sun, and avoid soggy soil.
- Pot it up once roots have formed.
For leaf cuttings, some growers use a leaf with a short piece of stem attached. Results vary, so taking a few cuttings improves your chances.
Do peperomias have flowers?
Yes, though they are not showy. Peperomias produce slender spikes, often called rat-tail flower spikes, that rise above the foliage. The National Garden Bureau notes that these are a way to recognize the genus, and that the plants are grown for foliage rather than blooms. Some growers cut the spikes off to keep the plant’s energy on leaves, though this is optional.
Troubleshooting
- Yellowing leaves: often linked to overwatering or poor drainage. Check the soil and the roots.
- Soft or mushy stems: a sign of possible root rot. Unpot the plant, trim away dark, soft roots, and repot into fresh, airy mix in a clean pot with drainage. Recovery is not guaranteed.
- Leaves turning black: black, soft patches usually point to rot from too much water or cold damage from a chilly spot. Check the roots and the plant’s location, and cut away affected growth.
- Wrinkled or limp leaves: may mean the plant is thirsty or the roots are damaged. If the soil is dry, water thoroughly. If the soil is wet, suspect root problems.
- Leaf drop: commonly follows cold drafts, sudden temperature changes, moving the plant, or low light.
- Dull, faded leaves: may be too much direct sun.
- Brown leaf edges: can follow cold drafts or very dry soil.
- Pests: peperomias are fairly pest-resistant, but check for mealybugs and treat early by wiping leaves or using an appropriate product according to its label.
Is peperomia easy to keep alive?
For many people, yes. The plants are compact, tolerate moderate light, and forgive missed waterings better than most tropical plants. The main risk is too much water in dense soil. Some species, such as Peperomia caperata and Peperomia argyreia, are less tolerant of drying out completely, so learn which one you have.
Pet and child safety
The ASPCA lists peperomia as non-toxic to cats and dogs, and several plant retailers describe the taco plant as pet-safe. “Non-toxic” does not mean edible. Chewing any houseplant can cause mild stomach upset in a pet or child, and fertilizer, pesticide residue, or soil on the plant adds other risks. Keep plants out of reach of small children and pets where you can. If a pet or child eats a large amount of a plant, or seems unwell afterward, contact a veterinarian, a poison control service, or a doctor for advice.
Other compact peperomias to try
Once the taco plant feels easy, there are many other peperomias to explore. The Funky Frog peperomia is a vining type with contrasting leaf veins. Peperomia ‘Napoli Nights’ offers silvery grey leaves with a reddish underside. Both follow the same general rule of thumb: bright indirect light, a fast-draining mix, and a light hand with water.