Philodendron & Aroids

Philodendron Care Guide

Learn how to care for philodendrons, including the compact Hope and Little Hope types: light, watering, soil, humidity, problems, and pet safety.

On this page
  1. Quick answer: philodendron care at a glance
  2. What a “Hope” or “Little Hope” philodendron is
  3. Climbing vs self-heading philodendrons
  4. Light
  5. Watering
  6. Soil and pots
  7. Temperature and humidity
  8. Feeding, pruning, and repotting
  9. Common problems
  10. Are philodendrons safe for pets and children?
  11. Popular varieties covered on this site
  12. FAQ

Quick answer: philodendron care at a glance

Most philodendrons are forgiving houseplants. As a general guide, they do best in bright, indirect light, a pot with drainage holes, a loose potting mix, and watering only when the top part of the soil has dried out. They like normal household warmth and tolerate average indoor humidity, though more humidity often helps leaf quality.

Individual plants differ, so treat the numbers in this guide as starting points and watch how your own plant responds.

Safety first: philodendrons are toxic if chewed or eaten. Keep them out of reach of cats, dogs, and young children (details below).

What a “Hope” or “Little Hope” philodendron is

The names “Hope” and “Little Hope” are used in plant shops for compact, deeply lobed philodendrons related to the tree philodendron, often sold as Philodendron ‘Hope’ or Hope Selloum. Naming is inconsistent in the trade, and some botanists place the tree philodendron in the genus Thaumatophyllum. If a label says “Little Hope”, check the tag or ask the seller what size to expect, because the name is used loosely.

These plants grow as a self-heading clump rather than a vine. Their care is very similar to the larger tree philodendron, which we cover in Is Selloum an indoor plant?. Nursery sources describe the full-size version as reaching roughly five feet tall and wide with mature leaves of up to a few feet, so give it room even if the pot you bought it in looks small.

Climbing vs self-heading philodendrons

Knowing your type changes how you care for it:

Light

Bright, indirect light suits most philodendrons. A spot a little back from an east or west window is a common choice. Many tolerate lower light, but growth tends to slow and stems may stretch; our guide to easy low-light houseplants covers dim rooms in more detail. Direct afternoon sun can scorch leaves. Variegated and colourful types usually need more light to keep their patterns.

Rotate the pot every so often so the plant grows evenly instead of leaning toward the window.

Watering

Overwatering is a more common cause of trouble than underwatering. A reasonable approach:

  1. Check the soil with a finger. For most philodendrons, water when the top inch or two feels dry.
  2. Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer.
  3. Water less often in winter, when growth slows.

A moisture meter can help if you are unsure, but it is not essential. Exact frequency depends on light, pot size, season, and soil, so a fixed schedule is only a rough guide.

Soil and pots

Use a loose, well-draining mix. Many growers add bark or perlite to regular potting soil. Choose a pot with drainage holes and one only slightly larger than the root ball. Pots without drainage make overwatering easier.

Temperature and humidity

Philodendrons generally prefer the temperatures people find comfortable indoors, roughly the mid-60s to upper 70s Fahrenheit (about 18 to 26 C). Keep them away from cold drafts, heating vents, and air conditioners. Average home humidity is usually acceptable. If leaf edges turn crisp in very dry air, grouping plants or using a humidifier may help.

Feeding, pruning, and repotting

  • Feeding: a balanced houseplant fertiliser at the diluted strength on the label during the growing season is usually enough. Skip it in winter.
  • Pruning: trim leggy or damaged stems with clean scissors. Wear gloves, since sap can irritate skin.
  • Repotting: repot when roots circle the pot or push out of the drainage holes, usually in spring or early summer, into a pot one size up.
  • Cleaning: wipe dusty leaves and check the undersides for pests.

Common problems

Symptom Likely cause
Yellow leaves Often overwatering, sometimes natural ageing of older leaves
Brown, crispy edges Dry air, underwatering, or salt build-up
Long gaps between leaves Not enough light
Drooping Either too dry or too wet; check the soil first
Sticky residue or fine webbing Possible pests such as scale or spider mites

Brown aerial roots are normal and do not mean the plant is unwell.

Are philodendrons safe for pets and children?

No. Philodendrons contain calcium oxalate crystals, and chewing or swallowing any part can cause mouth and throat irritation, drooling, vomiting, and swelling. Sap can also irritate skin. They are considered toxic to cats and dogs, and to people.

If you have pets or small children, keep philodendrons somewhere they cannot reach, or choose a different plant. If you think a pet or child has chewed one, contact your veterinarian, a poison control service, or a doctor promptly and have the plant name ready. Do not wait for symptoms to worsen.

Philodendrons are aroids, so you may also like our guides to whether a monstera is air purifying, indoor Alocasia care and Sensation vs peace lily.

FAQ

Is philodendron hard to take care of? Generally no. Many are considered beginner-friendly. The main risk is keeping the soil too wet.

What is the holy grail of philodendrons? There is no official answer. Collectors use the phrase loosely for rare, sought-after, or highly variegated types, and opinions vary.

How big does Philodendron Hope grow? Nursery sources describe mature plants as reaching about five feet tall and wide, though indoor plants are often smaller and size depends on light and pot space.

What is a hope plant? It is a common shop name for a tree philodendron cultivar, usually sold as Philodendron ‘Hope’ or Hope Selloum.

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