Calathea at a glance
Calatheas are grown for their patterned, often colorful leaves, and they have a reputation for being fussy. Most of that reputation comes from a few specific needs. In general, they do best with:
- Light: medium to bright indirect light, with no direct sun on the leaves.
- Water: soil kept evenly moist but not soggy, using filtered, rain or distilled water where you can.
- Humidity: higher than many homes provide, often suggested at around 50% or more.
- Temperature: steady, warm room temperatures, commonly given as roughly 18 to 27 C (65 to 80 F), away from drafts.
- Pets: generally listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA, though see the safety section below.
If you get those four things reasonably right, most of the rest follows.
Calathea or Goeppertia? A quick note on names
Many plants sold as calatheas have been moved by botanists to the genus Goeppertia. Plant shops, labels and most growers still say “calathea”, and so do we. You may see both names for the same plant, for example Calathea makoyana and Goeppertia makoyana. Care is the same either way.
Calatheas belong to the family Marantaceae, which also includes the true prayer plant, Maranta leuconeura. If you are wondering how the two relate, see Is a peacock plant a prayer plant?
Why calatheas have a reputation for being difficult
Calatheas are tropical understory plants. In nature they grow under larger plants in warm, humid, shaded conditions with regular rain. Typical homes are drier, brighter in places, and more variable in temperature, and calatheas show stress quickly: leaf edges brown, leaves curl or the pattern fades.
Common reasons people struggle:
- The soil dries out completely between waterings, or stays soggy.
- The air is dry, especially near heaters or air conditioning.
- Water with a lot of dissolved minerals, or treated tap water, may contribute to brown tips on sensitive plants.
- The plant sits in too much direct sun or in a drafty spot.
None of these is hard to fix, but they need to be consistent. A calathea tends to reward a steady routine more than occasional rescue efforts.
Where is the best place to put a calathea?
Light
Medium to bright indirect light is the usual advice. A spot a little back from an east-facing window, or set back from a west or south window so the sun does not hit the leaves directly, often works. Direct sun can scorch leaves and fade the pattern. Too little light can lead to slower growth and weaker color. A north-west window often gives the soft light they like; see plants for a north-west window. Plants with lighter variegation, such as the fusion types, often benefit from somewhat brighter conditions than plain dark green ones.
Temperature and drafts
Keep the plant in a warm, stable room. Cold drafts from windows or doors, and hot or cold air from vents and radiators, are common causes of damage. If a spot feels uncomfortable for you in winter, it may not suit a calathea either. A chilly sill is a particular risk; see plants near a cold window.
A bathroom or kitchen can work if it has enough light, though the idea that a bathroom will fix humidity on its own is optimistic unless the room is regularly steamy.
How to water a calathea
How often
There is no universal schedule. Instead, check the soil. A common approach is to water thoroughly when the top 1 to 2 inches (about 2.5 to 5 cm) of soil feels dry, then let excess water drain away and empty the saucer. Watering is usually less frequent in winter when growth slows, but the soil should not be left to dry out completely. Our winter houseplant care tips cover the season in more detail.
If you are unsure, a finger test or a moisture meter can help. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause drooping and curling, so check the soil before assuming which one it is.
Water quality
Calatheas are widely reported to be sensitive to minerals, chlorine and fluoride in tap water. Using filtered, rainwater or distilled water is a common precaution. If you only have tap water, letting it sit out for a day mainly allows it to reach room temperature and may not remove everything, so if brown tips keep appearing, switching water sources is worth trying. Use water at room temperature rather than cold.
Whether you water from the top or from below is mostly a matter of preference. Top watering flushes the soil. Bottom watering, by standing the pot in a tray of water for a short time, can help soil absorb water evenly. Either way, do not leave the pot sitting in water for long.
Humidity
Humidity is often the biggest challenge. Aim for the higher end of what you can reasonably manage; around 50% or more is a frequently cited target. Ways to raise it:
- Run a humidifier near the plant. This is usually the most effective option.
- Group plants together so they share moisture.
- Use a pebble tray, which gives only a small, local effect.
Misting is widely suggested but its effect is brief, and wet leaves in cool, still air can encourage spotting. Treat it as a minor extra at best. A small hygrometer is an inexpensive way to see what your room is actually doing.
Soil, pots and repotting
Use a loose, airy, well-draining potting mix that still holds some moisture. A general indoor mix with added perlite or bark is a common choice. Use a pot with drainage holes. Calatheas have fairly shallow roots and do not need a much larger pot. Repot when roots fill the pot, usually every year or two, in spring or early summer. At repotting you can divide a crowded plant into sections.
Feeding
During spring and summer, a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer every few weeks is a typical approach, using half the strength on the label. Skip feeding in winter. Too much fertilizer can burn roots and leaf edges, so lean cautious.
Should you cut off brown tips and yellow leaves?
Brown tips and edges do not turn green again. You can trim them if they bother you. Use clean, sharp scissors and follow the natural shape of the leaf, leaving a thin margin of brown so you do not cut into healthy tissue. Trimming is cosmetic; the real fix is to deal with the cause, usually humidity, watering or water quality.
Fully yellow leaves can be cut off at the base of the stem, since they are unlikely to recover. If many leaves are yellowing at once, look at watering first. Remove only a few at a time so the plant keeps most of its foliage.
Troubleshooting common calathea problems
| Symptom | Common causes | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| Brown, crispy edges or tips | Dry air, irregular watering, minerals in water | Raise humidity, keep soil evenly moist, switch to filtered or rainwater |
| Curling leaves | Dry soil, low humidity, sometimes too much sun | Check soil moisture, move out of direct light, raise humidity |
| Yellow leaves | Overwatering, poor drainage, or natural aging of older leaves | Check drainage and soil moisture; remove old leaves |
| Faded pattern | Too much direct light | Move to softer, indirect light |
| Dull, leggy growth | Too little light | Move closer to a bright window |
| Fine webbing or speckled leaves | Spider mites | Isolate the plant, rinse leaves, treat per product directions |
Pests
Spider mites are the pest most often associated with calatheas, especially in dry air. Mealybugs and scale are also possible. Check the undersides of leaves regularly. Wiping leaves with a damp cloth and keeping humidity up help; for infestations, isolate the plant and follow the directions on a houseplant-safe treatment.
Are calatheas safe for pets and children?
The ASPCA lists most calatheas as non-toxic to cats and dogs, and they are generally regarded as a low-risk houseplant around children. Even so, “non-toxic” does not mean “meant to be eaten”. Any plant material can cause stomach upset if chewed, and children or pets may also react to pesticides, fertilizer or soil on the plant. Keep treatments and fertilizer out of reach, and if a pet or child has eaten a significant amount of any plant and seems unwell, contact a veterinarian, poison control or a doctor promptly. Check the specific plant name if you are unsure.
Choosing a calathea
Different calatheas differ in how fussy they are and how much light they need. If you are still choosing, our guide to indoor calathea types compares the popular ones. For specific plants, see Calathea Yellow Fusion care, whether the zebra plant is an indoor plant, and the difference between a peacock plant and a prayer plant. If your plant is actually a Maranta, see prayer plant care.
Frequently asked questions
Why do calathea leaves move at night? Calatheas raise their leaves in the evening and lower them in the morning, a behavior called nyctinasty. It is normal and a sign the plant is responding to the day and night cycle.
How big do calatheas get? It depends on the variety. Many stay under about two feet tall indoors, while some, such as the zebra plant, can grow considerably larger.
Can I put my calathea outside? In frost-free tropical or subtropical climates some people grow them in shade outdoors. In most places they are best kept indoors, or outside only in warm weather in full shade.
Is it normal for a new calathea to drop leaves? A new plant often sulks after a move because light, humidity and water change. Keep conditions stable and avoid making many changes at once.