Why houseplants struggle in winter
Most popular houseplants come from tropical or subtropical regions. In winter, indoor conditions move further from what they are used to: days are shorter, the sun sits lower, and heated air is often very dry. Many plants respond by slowing down or pausing growth. Some yellowing and a few dropped leaves can be a normal response rather than a sign you are doing something wrong.
The practical goal in winter is usually not to push growth. It is to keep plants stable until spring: steady light, no cold drafts, careful watering and a little attention to pests.
Conditions differ a lot from house to house, so treat the guidance below as a starting point and watch your own plants.
Watering in winter
Plants generally use less water in winter because they photosynthesize less and soil dries more slowly in cool, low-light conditions. Overwatering is one of the most common winter problems, and it can lead to root rot.
- Check the soil, not the calendar. If you normally water on a set day and the soil is still damp, wait. Pushing a finger an inch or two into the soil is a simple test.
- Let the soil dry more than you would in summer. Many plants do well when the top inch or two dries out before watering; succulents and cacti need to dry out further.
- Use room-temperature water. Very cold water straight from a cold tap may stress roots.
- Empty saucers. Do not leave pots standing in water.
- Adjust for your home. Terracotta pots dry faster than plastic, and a pot above a heat source may need water more often than you expect. Dry heated homes can mean some plants need water more often, not less.
How often should you water in winter? There is no single answer. Roughly, many plants need water less often than in summer, but the right interval depends on the plant, pot, light and heating. Checking the soil is more reliable than following a fixed schedule.
Light: getting the most out of short days
Light is usually the biggest change in winter. Some ways to help:
- Clean the windows and leaves. Dust and grime reduce the light that reaches the plant.
- Move plants closer to bright windows, but keep leaves from touching cold glass.
- Rotate pots regularly so growth stays even.
- Consider a grow light. A full-spectrum LED can make a real difference for light-hungry plants such as succulents, cacti and ficus. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended distance, since some LEDs are strong enough to scorch leaves that sit too close. Pink or brown patches under a light can be a sign it is too near.
- Notice outdoor changes. A tree outside a window that loses its leaves in fall may let in more light than in summer, even though days are shorter.
Plants that stay under grow lights or in an unusually bright window may keep growing and can keep a lighter feeding schedule, while plants that have gone quiet usually should not be fed.
Temperature: how cold is too cold?
Most houseplants are comfortable at normal room temperatures, roughly the range people find comfortable. Many tropical plants can be damaged when temperatures fall to around 50°F (10°C) or lower, and some are sensitive at even higher temperatures, so it is safest to keep tropical plants well above that, particularly at night.
Sudden changes cause problems too:
- Keep plants away from radiators, heating vents and fireplaces, which can scorch leaves and dry them out.
- Avoid cold window sills on freezing nights. If the pot feels cold to the touch, there may be a draft or the glass may be chilling the roots.
- Weather stripping or sealing tape can reduce drafts around old windows.
- When you open a window to air the room in winter, move delicate plants out of the cold stream.
If you are unsure of a specific plant’s lowest safe temperature, check care information for that species.
Humidity in heated homes
Heated indoor air can be much drier than tropical plants prefer. Signs of low humidity include brown leaf tips and edges, and curling leaves. Options include:
- A humidifier near your plants. This is generally considered the most effective option, and it is more comfortable for people too. A small hygrometer helps you see what is actually happening.
- Grouping plants. Plants release moisture, and grouping can raise humidity slightly around them.
- Pebble trays. Advice is mixed. They may add a little local moisture, but some growers report no measurable change. If you use one, keep the base of the pot above the water.
- Misting. The effect is brief, and wet leaves may increase the risk of fungal problems, so many growers skip it.
Some plants, such as calatheas and ferns, are more bothered by dry air than others, such as snake plants and succulents.
Fertilizer and repotting
- Fertilizer: Most plants that have slowed down do not need feeding in winter, and extra fertilizer can build up salts in the soil. Many growers pause fertilizing until spring growth starts. If a plant is under a grow light and still producing new growth, a reduced dose may be reasonable.
- Repotting: Unless the plant is badly root-bound or has root rot, wait until spring, when it can recover faster. Replacing the top layer of soil is a gentler option.
Cleaning leaves and checking for pests
Dusty leaves absorb less light, so wipe them with a damp cloth or give the plant a lukewarm shower. Do this indoors in a warm room rather than leaving plants cold and wet.
Dry indoor air and stressed plants can make pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, thrips, aphids and fungus gnats more noticeable. Check the undersides of leaves and the joints where leaves meet the stem. Fine webbing, cottony clusters or sticky residue are warning signs. If you find pests:
- Isolate the plant from others.
- Wipe or rinse off what you can.
- Treat with a product labelled for houseplants, following the label directions.
Keep any pest-control products, including soap sprays and neem oil, away from children and pets, and read the label before use. New plants and plants that spent summer outdoors are common sources, so inspect them before they join the rest.
Which houseplants handle winter best?
Plants that tolerate lower light and drier soil tend to cope best, including snake plants, ZZ plants, pothos and cast-iron plants. Succulents and cacti usually want as much light as possible and very little water (see our succulent winter care guide). Moisture-loving plants such as ferns and calatheas often need extra attention to humidity.
A safety note for homes with pets or young children: many common houseplants, including pothos, philodendrons, dieffenbachia and peace lilies, can be irritating or toxic if chewed or swallowed. When you rearrange plants for winter, keep them out of reach of pets and children, and check a trusted source such as the ASPCA plant list for pet-specific information. If you suspect a pet or child has eaten a plant, contact a veterinarian, poison control service or doctor promptly.
If you are going away during the cold months, see our guide on what to do with plants when you are on vacation.
A simple winter checklist
- Check soil moisture before every watering.
- Clean windows and leaves.
- Move plants away from drafts and heat sources.
- Add light where plants are leggy or pale.
- Pause fertilizer for slow or dormant plants.
- Inspect for pests weekly.
- Postpone repotting until spring.
Frequently asked questions
How cold is too cold for a houseplant? It depends on the species. Many tropical houseplants can be damaged at about 50°F (10°C) or below, so it is safer to keep them warmer than that.
What indoor plants can survive the winter season? Tough, low-light tolerant plants such as snake plants, ZZ plants and pothos tend to do well. Succulents survive if they get strong light and little water.
How often should I water my houseplants in winter? Less often than in summer for most plants, but check the soil rather than following a set schedule.
Should I stop fertilizing in winter? Often yes, for plants that have stopped growing. Resume when you see new growth in spring.